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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.